Want to buy a bike? READ THIS FIRST

[Minkey Chief]

You want to buy a bike, and are looking for advice. Great - you have come to the right place. We're a pretty helpful bunch, but we are not going to spoonfeed you and do your work for you. So before you ask a question like "I have Rs XXk to spend, what bike do I buy", pease read this in detail. This will help you understand a few concepts and will help you ask more informed questions, which in turn will generate more useful answers.

Fellow BZers - please feel free to add meaningful content, different opinions, etc to the end of this post to provide a broader spectrum of views. Let's try to keep all the posts in this thread content-rich for beginners who are reading it, and minimize non-relevant content.

STEP 1: DECIDE UPON YOUR USAGE - WHAT WILL YOU USE THE BIKE FOR
In theory, there would be 1 bike that does everything well. In theory, Katrina Kaif and Angelina Jolie should also be fighting over me. Alas, reality can be irksome. Angelina is not interested in fighting over me and no single bike does everything either. You can try to get a bike which tries to do a bit of everything, and end up with a compromise that does nothing well, or you can be honest with yourself and decide what the primary function of the bike is going to be, and get something suited for that.

So here are some potential uses (we will get into bike types, features, etc in more detail later):
(a) Commuting or general usage -- it is a good way to get exercise, be environmentally-friendly and save money as well. A commuting bike will focus on comfort, have space to carry a change of clothes/briefcase, have mudguards and will be easy to ride in a city
(b) Fitness -- a fitness bike is likely to be ridden on tarmac and pretty much any bike can be used for this purpose. You can look a the list of bike features later and decide what works for you
(c) Racing/long rides -- here, the emphasis is on efficiency, comfort and speed. Usually, you want a bike designed for road use.
(d) Off-road riding -- if you want to ride trails, climb hills, fly down dirt tracks, you want a mountain bike.

And sometimes, the answer may be to buy 2 bikes that specialize in 1 area each, rather than 1 bike that does neither well.

STEP 2: DECIDE UPON YOUR BUDGET
Now, this gets tricky. A lot of people have a price expectation of bicycles that is based on the Rs 1500 Hero cycles that are common everywhere. The fact of the matter is, high-quality bikes are not cheap. A top-end hardtail mountain bike runs $3000 or Rs 1.5 lakhs. A top-end full-suspension bike runs Rs 2.5 lakhs. Top-level racing bikes range from Rs 1.5 lakhs to Rs 6 lakhs. Dont run away... I am not saying that you have to spend this much money to buy a bike. I am just saying that bikes are pretty high-tech pieces of equipment, something that is not immediately obvious to a newcomer who has only seen the iron behemoths that are prevalent in India.

What your extra money generally gets you is:
- lesser weight
- higher quality components: suspension (high-quality suspension, front or rear, is NOT cheap), better wheels (roll faster/lighter), smoother gear shifting, etc

I will talk about specific price points in a separate post b/c that is more subjective and my opinion may be different from other people's opinions. But generally speaking, there are 2 approaches here: one is to get an inexpensive bike so that you know whether or not you are really into it. The other is to get as nice a bike as you can afford - this is not only cheaper in the long run, but also - if you have a nicer bike, you are going to enjoy riding it a lot more. Sometimes, a really low-end bike, especially one loaded with useless features and junk components, can actually put you *off* biking. Anyway, you now know the tradeoff and are intelligent enough to figure out how much you can afford.

STEP 3: SELECT YOUR REQUIRED FEATURES
From section (2) above, it should be clear that for a given price point, the more features you want, the less the quality of each of those features is going to be. And if you want a lot of features and high quality in each of them, you are going to have to pay more. So be careful about selecting features that you really NEED, as opposed to WANT. Sometimes, it is better to have fewer, higher-quality features than a lot of features of shoddy quality. Of course, there is also the argument that sometimes having a bike that you really like can inspire you to ride more - lot to be said for that, but if you think you fall in this category, loosen up those purse strings.

So let's now talk about features and where you need them.

(a) Rear Suspension: Let me keep it simple. You dont need it. Full suspension is for extreme trail riding, with lots of roots, rocks and bumps and a good full-suspension design is *not* cheap. If you are on BikesZone as a first-time bike buyer, and your budget is under Rs 1 lakh, avoid rear suspension like the plague. It is going to suck, it is going to make your bike heavier and so slower and it will NOT make the ride any more comfortable. Trust me on this.

(b) Front Suspension: You need front suspension ONLY if you plan to ride a lot of trails. You do not need front suspension to ride on tarmac, no matter how potholed it is. Yes, it helps a little on rough roads but imposes a weight penalty, cost penalty (top-end full suspension forks cost over Rs 35,000 - even a decent budget fork costs over Rs 10,000), handling penalty and speed penalty (not as efficient as a rigid front). You *especially* don't want a cheap front suspension -- it has all the disadvantages above and doesnt even work very well. Tire type, tire pressure and choice of bike frame (steel vs aluminum) will make a bigger difference in ride quality. In mountain biking, one of the hottest new bike styles is a rigid (ie, no suspension whatsoever) steel bike. If expert MTBers can use this to ride trails, you can use a rigid bike to ride on the road. Yeah, I know - where you live, the roads are crap. Newflash - that is true for most of us in India. Trust me, you dont need suspension to ride on these roads.

(c) Disc brakes: Disc brakes are nice to have, but by no means a necessity. Remember those Rs 5 lakh racing bikes I told you about? They dont have disc brakes and they are ridden a lot faster than you or I can manage. Disc brakes are useful in the sense that they work better in rain and mud (esp mud) but by using proper techniques, you can stop quite well with rim brakes as well (and besides, unless you are a loco MTBer, how fast are you going to be riding in the wet anyway?). Good rim brakes are better than cheap disk brakes, are easier to adjust, easier to maintain and better value, especially if you are on a budget.

(d) Bike frame: Most modern frames are made of Aluminum these days b/c it is lighter (high-end frames for racing are made of carbon fiber, but I am assuming you are not at the stage of spending Rs 1.5 lakhs on a bike yet). But steel is making a comeback and for a good reason - steel absorbs road vibrations a lot better and so makes the ride a lot more comfortable (atleast in the sub-Rs 50k bike range). A steel bike with a steel fork in the front (so no suspension) can actually be a lot more comfier than a cheap Al bike with crappy front and rear suspensions. Yes, you pay a weight penalty compared to a similarly-specced Al bike, but unless you are racing (and often, even then), the tradeoffs can be worth it.

(e) Tires: Tires typically come in 2 flavors: 26" diameter, which are the fat bad boys that go on mountain bikes and are used for off-road riding, or 700c, which are the larger, skinnier tires that you see on road bikes and which are intended for tarmac use. There is a second number along with this, representing the width of the tire (in inches, for 26" tires or mm for 700c tires). So a sample tire may have its size given 26x2.0 or 700x25. Typical mountain bike tires tend to be in the 2.0-2.2 thickness range (thinner tires are more for racing). In road bikes, 700x23 and 700x25 tires are for racing, 700x28 to 700x32 tires are for general use and 700x35 or fatter tires are for touring, where you are carrying 15kg+ of cargo on the bike.

Everyone likes those big, fat mountain bike tires. They look bad-ass. They look big (and we are mostly guys, so bigger is better...). They look hardcore. And they are great for off-road riding, where they provide extra cushioning and oodles of grip.

However, on tarmac, skinny tires roll a lot faster (with less effort, to boot) and can have a deceptive amount of grip: a lot of people avoid them b/c they are afraid of falling or skidding out, but that fear is unfounded. It does take a ride or two to get used to them, and the difference in speed compared to a mountain tire is mind-blowing (I say this from personal experience, having compared the basic, low-end 700c tires on my road bike to the high-end racing trail tires on my MTB - the cheap 700cs destroy the MTB tires on the road. It isnt even a contest). So if you want to go fast, get skinnies.

However, fat tires add a big degree of comfort. Larger air volume + lower pressures == built-in suspension and a plush ride. If you are going to be riding relatively short distances, or comfort is more important than going very fast, then get fatter tires. Try to get them in a slicker tread (less knobs) if you are going to be riding on the road, to reduce the rolling resistance - you dont need heavy knobs for road riding.

(f) Handlebars: A lot of people prefer straight handlebars (which are used predominantly in Mountain Bikes). The benefit of those is that you ride in a more upright position, which can be comfier, especially if you are not very flexible or have a few extra pounds on the waist. A lot of people are also put off the thought of drop bars (those curved, rams horn like bars you see on racing bikes), thinking that they are harder to handle, and you need more practice/skills in order to manage. Rubbish. It takes 1 ride to get used to drop bars. Drop bars give you a few more hand positions, which is nice for extended rides. And if you want to go fast, drop bars let you get into a lot more aerodynamic position and let's face it, they look pretty cool to see and to ride - even for a staunch MTBer like me, there is a great thrill of being hunched over in the drops and flying at speed. Ultimately, however, go with what makes you comfortable - just make sure you get it for the right reasons and not based on misconceptions that one is harder to manage than the other.

(g) Gears: Gears are good. If you are riding mainly in flat terrain, you dont need too many gears (or even any gears). But if you want to ride hills, gears are your friend. Gears are advertised in a range of numbers, with 24 speed or 27 speed being quite common these days. These are typically written as 3x8 or 3x9, which means 3 gears at the pedals, and 8 or 9 gears in the rear. More gears typically means smaller spacings between each gear, not necessarily a greater *range* of gears. This means that with more gears, you are better able to fine-tune and get the perfect gearing for any situation - it doesnt mean that it will necessarily become easier to climb a big mountain with a 27 speed geared bike vs a 24 speed geared bike.

Also, without getting into a lot of details on gear ratios, even a 27 speed geared bike really has around 14 distinct gear ratios, more or less - there is a lot of overlap, and there are some combos which are not supposed to be used. So dont fret too much about the number of gears - focus, instead, on how easily the gears shift (especially the ones in the front - those tend to be a bit temperamental, especially with budget gear shifters).

STEP 4: SOME RECOMMENDATIONS:
When you go to a bike showroom, it is hard to not get seduced by mountain bikes. They are amazing pieces of technology, they are brawny, they look cool and they had macho names like Sultan, Jet, Leviathan and more. Road bikes are slim, svelte and have names like Pista, Madone and Roubaix. So naturally, you are going to want to buy a mountain bike.

Umm. Think again. Are you REALLY going to be bashing around on mountain trails? REALLY? Or will you just do it once or twice, and then stick to using this bike as an urban commuter? Remember what we started this thread with - know thy intended usage.

If you want to go trail riding, by all means buy a mountain bike. Expect to pay atleast Rs 15,000+ (Rs 20k+ if you are heavier than 70kg) for a good, trail-worthy mountain bike with front suspension that works, and which is robust enough to withstand the shocks and impact of trail riding. The more rough your intended trails, the more money you will need to spend, but for most beginners, this is a good starting point. Yeah, there are cheaper options but they will more or less suck. Companies to look at: Trek & Cannodale are 2 top global brands in India - they may cost a little more than generic brands, but you will get a quality product that works well (compared to a lot of other bikes which look like mountain bikes but which will die within half an hour on the trail). Merida is the world's largest manufacturer of bikes and is also a good option to consider, although it is not as much of a premium brand as the other 2. If you are on a tighter budget, then consider the B'twin Rockrider bikes sold by Decathlon. Some of the specs look good, but there is a lot of generic componentry on them as well and there isnt a lot of feedback on these bikes yet. Avoid Firefox for actual trail riding. I have yet to see a Firefox bike that I would take on a trail. I'd much rather walk, thank you very much.

If you want to race/go fast, get a road bike. These are not going to be cheap. Expect to spend north of Rs 30k for a Merida, closer to Rs 40k for a Trek or Cannondale. But now you are getting a bike that is built for speed and with components that, while on the budget end of the scale, will still give you years of service and performance. Cheaper options include LA Sovereign (no reviews of it, however) or Firefox (couple of happy users here on BZ).

However, most people seem to be looking for a bike that they can use to go to work, to ride around for exercise and maybe even go on an occasional trail or two, but primarily use on tarmac - a general-purpose bike. For such people, the ideal bike is a hybrid bike, which combines the best of both mountain bikes and road bikes. Some features of hybrids:
- thinner tires than found on a mountain bike (but fatter than on race-oriented bikes) - typically 700x28-700x35 or 26x1.5-26x1.8 slicks, depending on the wheelset. This gives you a good mix of speed and efficiency.
- upright handlebars - comfier position
- front suspension or all rigid - on a cheaper end, you want all-rigid; at a higher budget, you can go for a front sus if you want, but remember what I rode earlier: it is a tradeoff.
Bianchi and Trek both make good hybrid bikes for a fairly reasonable price of approx Rs 20,000 or so and these are again, international-standard bikes.

To use a car analogy: Mountain bikes are the SUVs of the bike world - powerful, tough, go-everwhere bikes. And just like SUVs, a lot of people buy them to ride on tarmac... which works, but there are other choices which are better for this application. Road bikes are the convertible sports cars of the bike world - fast, sporty, not very practical for general usage (but daaaammmn, did I mention "fast"? As in, put-a-grin-on-your-face-and-make-you-think-you're-Lance fast?). Hybrids, on the other hand, are the minivans and sedans on the bike world. More utilitarian, good value for money, practical for daily usage, etc.

Hopefully, now you have a good idea of what features you need, etc. etc. I am hoping other users will chime in with suggested buys in the Rs 5000, 10,000, 15,000 and Rs 20,000 range.

I will end with an editorial. A lot of people think we are insane to spend the money we do on bikes. My friend, who lives and drives in Delhi, is planning to buy a Ford Endeavor (when he can get by with a Zen) and shakes his head in puzzlement at my mountain bike's price, even though my bike costs a LOT less. My response to that - I ride my bike daily, it keeps me fit, it gets me outdoors, it reduces my carbon footprint and it is FUN.

Compared to the many other things we spend so much money on (clothes, mobile phones, cars, holidays, etc), a bike is shockingly good value. And if you buy a good bike, you are more inclined to ride it, have fun and stay fit. Something to think about...

*****
A REQUEST TO PEOPLE READING THIS THREAD:

I hope you found this FAQ useful and that it helps you find a properly-sized bike.

I am ok if people PM/email me with any specific questions they have about what I wrote here. However, please do not get all excited and send me an email asking me "what bike to buy" or something like that, which defeats the entire point of the FAQ. I cannot, and will not, give specific advice on bikes for you.

For one, I dont have the time to answer every email on this topic or to look through the specs of the bikes you are considering and help split hairs as to the difference between Acera and Altus or whatever. Second, I dont know what current entry-level models, what their specs are or what the differences between them are. I haven't bought an entry-level bike for 4+ years, nor do I keep up with it.

And if you do send me an email asking for advice/clarification, please do your homework first.

Sorry for the curt nature of this post. I do want to help (which is why I wrote the damn FAQ in the first place), but I've had it with people sending me emails going "thanks for the FAQ. I need guidance about what bike to buy, what prices, what location. Expecting a speedy reply" [summary of a recent email I just received]

It is not my job to be your personal shopper or to spoonfeed you, and this demanding tone of voice irritates me.

[vkalia]

Anyway, now that you have an idea of what features to look for, let's also talk about another component - FIT. You can have the best bike in the world but if it doesnt fit, you are going to hate riding it and you are going to have all sorts of comfort issues. The standard answer to "fit" issues in most forums is to go to a LBS (Local Bike Shop) and have them sort you out. Ummm... good luck with that in India.

Most bike shops in India size you as follows - stand over the bike, over the top tube (the horizontal top bar). If there is 2-3 inches of space, it fits. Umm.... no. This is but one element of getting the bike sized correctly. There are lot more options. Arguably the single most important factor is "Effective Top Tube" length, which is the horizontal distance between the seatpost and the top of the headtube. This affects how far the handlebars are from your body, which affects your weight balance and distribution.

To get a rough idea of fit theory, read some of the links on this page:
http://www.cyclemetrics.com/Pages/FitLi ... _links.htm

Of particular interest should be the Peter White article and for non-competitive riders (ie, those looking for a relaxed, comfy bike), the Rivendell Bikes article. This should give you an idea of what a good fit is all about.

You can also try the fit calculators at Wrench Science (www.wrenchscience.com) and Competitive Cyclist (www.competitivecyclist.com) to get an idea of a good starting point. Then go to the manufacturer website and look at geometry of your chosen bike to figure out which size best suits your need.

The above is just a starting point. Sit on your chosen bike in the shop and try to see if you feel balanced, with your arms bent at 45 degrees and torso leaning forwards slightly. If you feel that you are extended too far out, or are too crunched up, you will need to adjust the reach. If you are sliding too far forwards and putting too much weight on your hands, you may need to raise the handlebars. If you leg is bent more than just a little bit when the pedal is on the bottom, you may need to raise your seat.

Of course, 5-10 min in a shop is different from 2-3 hours on the road. As you ride, you may need to modify your fit some more. You can usually get a +20/-40mm adjustment in reach quite easily, by changing the bike stem and/or moving the saddle back and forth. So there is enough flexibility to tweak sizing later.

Good luck!

[arvinsd]

very good post.

I'd like to add that bike geometry is highly variable so sitting on a bike is paramount before purchasing. most of the calculators assume a pretty standard geometry.

good example would be road bike vs a hybrid with sloping top tube - the hybrid will be much bigger for any given seat tube size.

[abhi]

What we can do it move the messages into a new thread called "Discussion on..." So that it can be used as a brainstorming area into what can go into this sticky thread.

[Minkey Chief]

As a relatively recent first-time buyer of a high-quality cycle, I found that after the research, the hardest part was justifying the price. First to myself, then to my spouse, and for some of us, to our parents, colleagues and friends.

This post aims to help you get rid of buyer’s guilt, and help confirm (or merely re-confirm) that you are doing the right thing by paying far in excess of Rs.15,000 or 20,000 for a bicycle, when you can buy one for a third of that cost.


The short answer
“Strong. Light. Cheap. Pick two.”
--Keith Bontrager, a bicycle-frame builder and component designer. He now develops components for Trek


To expand on the quote
If your bike is light and cheap, it probably won’t be strong. Many lower-end aluminium bikes and bike parts fit this category. Remember, “strong” doesn’t just mean that it can take your weight. “Strong” means it can take many times your weight day-in, day-out for years and years. Also, a strong bike is much easier to ride, as its frame and parts don’t flex too much when you pedal or brake.

If your bike is strong and cheap, it probably won’t be light. Think about your regular-issue “milkman’s bike”. They’re incredibly strong, but they weigh a ton. While a difference of a few hundred grams is debatable, the weight difference between an Atlas Goldline and a Trek 1.5 will make a huge difference to your speed, acceleration and climbing ability.

If your bike is light and strong, it probably won’t be cheap. This is why entry-level roadbikes are more expensive than entry-level mountain bikes. A lot of technology and detail goes into making aluminium tubes (for bike frames) that are strong, but very light. But as a new rider, do you need something light? No, if you’re talking about a sub-7kg racing bike. But yes, if you’re talking about bikes in the 9-12kg range. Trust me, no matter how new a rider you are, you deserve better than an 18-kg bike.


More on exactly what you pay for
1) Speed, smoothness, efficiency. More expensive bicycles are astonishingly smooth to pedal (many new riders use the word “butter” when describing their first ride). They are easy to get up hills, stable when coming down. With some training, road bikers can achieve average speeds above 27km/h on 50km rides. But you don’t have to be an athlete to cycle at 25 or 30km/h on a bike designed for the road.

2) Great braking. One of the biggest problems with cheap bikes is their horrendous braking. Expensive bikes have great brakes. It’s a myth that their brakes are dangerous because they are so good. You must learn to modulate the levers (squeeze them gently, so as not to lock the wheels). It doesn’t take long to get used to. Good braking gives you confidence, and you’re more relaxed on rides, not to mention safer.

3) Nearly zero maintenance. Remember your cycle from when you were a kid? Every two days (or, if you rode hard, two hours), there’d be something wrong. The brake levers would become loose, the saddle would tilt, the mudguards would fall off, the pedals would wobble, the chain would creak. You can ride an entry-level mountain bike off-road for two years without ever having anything come loose or break or creak or fall off. Ever. (First-hand experience.) This kind of reliability costs money, and let me tell you, is worth every paisa. Think about your dad’s Fiat or Ambassador from when you were a child. Today, would you put up with a car that takes 10 minutes to start every morning, if it starts at all? Or one that breaks down on the road at least once a month? In the same way, someone who rides regularly should not have to put up with a cycle that falls apart.

4) Thoughtful design. After you get your new "expensive" bike, you'll spend a lot of time oohing and aahing over the design. These bikes are clearly designed by riders, for riders. There are more obvious things such as the frame shape and quick-release wheels (you can remove both wheels completely in less than a minute). But there are hordes of other things, depending on the bike: easy-open chains (for cleaning), anatomically designed saddles and brake levers, places to fix waterbottle holders or racks, gearing carefully thought out for the kind of riding the bike is intended for... it goes on.


Finally, times have changed
Even after all this, some of you are thinking, “But I managed just fine as a kid on a Rs.1,000 bicycle!” Remember, you ride very differently as an adult. You now ride fast and continuously, not stopping every now and then to throw stones, or visit friends, or for a game of cricket. Your body is less flexible, more prone to dehydration, and more prone to discomfort or injury than when you were 14. Consider that on an 80km ride, you’re as much as 40km from home. That’s a LONG way to walk if there are no buses or vans that’ll give you a ride. Also, you’re usually on some kind of deadline—you can no longer go out in the morning, and come back before the streetlights come on. You can no longer begin or end every ride at the cycle shop. You want a bike that is efficient and comfortable, and totally reliable. With cycles, this level of quality almost always begins at about Rs.15,000.

And if you're a spouse or parent who has been directed here by an eager cyclist-to-be, don't worry. Bless the purchase. It sounds like crazy money, but a good cycle is one of the cheapest things your cycling maniac will ever spend on. A good cycle brings joy every time it's ridden, unlike almost every other purchase that starts to get boring after a while. It'll outlast your flat-screen TV, your high-end cell phone and your car. And the pedalling fool will be slimmer and healthier for it. Get them on a bike, and get yourself on one as well!

[Minkey Chief]

When you buy a bike, there are some accessories that are worth considering as well.

Helmet
This is hotly debated as a matter of personal preference, and ultimately, it is. I will just say this - most parts of the body heal. The brain is one part that doesnt. In India, we seems to hate safety. We dont wear seat belts. We curse when the government mandates that we wear helmets on motorcycles and scooters. Hey, you are an adult, do as you please - but remember, one blow to the head can put you in a coma, paralyze you, affect your ability to see or speak or even kill you. If you think the convenience of not wearing a helmet or not messing up your hair is worth that risk, more power to you. Just remember: take 2 to have an accident. You may be going carefully and slow, but that doesnt mean the other person is. Sermon over.

Pumps
You'll want a way to pump up your bike. Small pumps can be taken with you on a ride but dont pump as efficiently. Big pumps pump faster. If you travel long distances, you want one of both - otherwise, get a pump for home; in India, there is always a cycle repair shop somewhere nearby anyway.

Saddle
Avoid gel saddles. If you are buying a more expensive bike (esp an imported one), you'll notice that the saddle is a lot smaller and harder. It is like that for a reason. When you sit, your weight is supported by your sit bones (the bony parts of your buttocks). A good saddle will allow you to put your weight there, and nowhere else. A gel or other soft saddle may feel comfier initially, but over time, the material shapes itself to your body and puts pressure on the underside of your crotch. This can lead to discomfort, numbness and in extreme cases, erectile dysfunction in men. So stay with the harder saddle. It is actually better for you ergonomically, and your tender rear will soon get used to it. Repeat after me: gel saddles bad, hard saddles good.

Clothes
Padded cycling shorts are very comfortable if you are going to be doing long rides - they soften the hard saddle without putting pressure on your sensitives. And they also prevent chafing (friction due to the seams of your underwear rubbing against your inner thigh and privates). But not everyone is keen to walk around wearing tight lycra. For short rides, you may not need it. For longer rides, consider getting a pair and putting it on underneath your regular shorts if that matters to you.

Jerseys - for regular riding, wear pretty much anything. Synthetic fabrics do a better job of wicking moisture away from your body and keeping you dry. Not a bad idea in our hot/humid climate. You dont have to spend the big bucks on cycling jerseys - any generic T-shirt designed for sports will do. Places like Shoppers Stop often have them on sale for a few hundred rupees each. Bright colors may not be a bad idea - make you more visible.

Gloves - again, for long rides, they are nice. Take the pressure off sensitive nerves in your hand, make it easier to grip the handlebars when you are sweating and prevent cuts to the hand if you take a fall.

Shoes - you can wear whatever you like. Harder/rigid shoes generally provide more power to the pedal, but I've gotten by fine with running shoes even.

Puncture/repair kit
You can get one, or you can pay your local cycle guy Rs 5-10 to fix yours. Only thing is, if you are riding and have a flat, what do you do? May not be a bad idea to keep a set on you.

Pedals
If you are buying a bike to race or for long distance riding, consider clipless pedals. These are pedals which allow you to attach your biking-specific shoes to the pedals by means of a cleat. So when you ride, your shoes are actually attached to the pedals (here, "clipless" means you are attached without clips; the normal type of pedals are called "platforms"). Clipless requires more equipment (special shoes and pedals), has a learning process (you are most likely going to fall a few times till your body gets used to unclipping the shoe from the pedal without conscious thought) and a lot of people happily cycle 150km+ a day with regular platform pedals. But if you want to go faster, clipless gives you an advantage in power transfer, efficiency and therefore speed.

Other accessories to consider
- Water bottles are not a bad idea to have for long rides. But if you are going to be riding and parking in a city, this is an invitation to have the bottle stolen. In such a case, get just the cage and you can fit a 1l mineral water bottle on it quite easily.
- saddle bag - good for carrying small bits and bobs
- bell
- mirror
- lock
- kickstand (more expensive bikes actually dont come with kickstands!)
- racks for attaching panniers or bags
- cyclocomputer -- good if you are training for fitness or speed, as it lets you know how fast you are going, how much distance you've covered and in some cases, your cadence (how fast you are rotating your pedals)

[Minkey Chief]

To add to the bit on shorts, if you don't like tight lycra, consider mountain-bike shorts. I wear my mountain-bike shorts on the road bike as well. They look like normal shorts with lots of pockets, but have padding, as well as a higher back (so that you don't show bum-cleavage when bending over on your road bike). They are comfortable even for four-hour rides.

[Sahas]

Adding Sunglasses to the list of accessories..

Prolonged exposure of your eyes to bright sunshine and glare off the road can do serious damage. Potential ailments include cataract, or in some extreme cases, even eye cancer. Also, getting dust into your eyes can cause you to loose your concentration- something that is especially dangerous on busy roads.
Therefore, sunglasses are a must. Good cycling sunglasses may be hard to come by in India, but a pair of Oakley's should comfortably fit the bill. Want it cheap? Try Polaroid. Cheaper still? Try Fastrack. Just make sure of the following:

1) Your glasses should be light weight. Light weight because you may need to wear them over long rides lasting a few hours.
2) The sunglasses should cover your eyes properly, even from the sides. This will protect your eyes from dust.
3) Make sure that the sunglasses have anti-glare, preferably polarized, lenses.

Rule of thumb: Never buy sunglasses cheap.

Edit: oops! didn't notice that we're not supposed to add a post here. Could the moderators please do the needful. Thanks!

[deepakvrao]

^^+1. Eye protection is a must. Dust as well as insects can cause a crash. Fasttrack makes prescription sunglasses at reasonable prices too.

Maintenance: You will have to learn to do at least a little yourself. Some sites that have it covered very well:

http://sheldonbrown.com/
http://www.parktool.com/repair/

And some videos:

http://bicycletutor.com/


Regarding punctures: If you don't want to carry a full kit, at least 3 levers, spare tube and a pump is a must [not an option]. While some good soul might very well help you in case of a flat, you must try to be self reliant

[anindya_911]

...Regarding punctures: If you don't want to carry a full kit, at least 3 levers, spare tube and a pump is a must [not an option]. While some good soul might very well help you in case of a flat, you must try to be self reliant

Deepak,

why do we need three levers for, I think two is the norm

Cheers

[deepakvrao]

Just replying here as you asked and mods can probably delete later.

I think some tough tyres might need three levers but I carry 3 as I broke one once so as a spare. Now I have unbreakable steel [coated with plastic] levers.

[prabuddhadg]

I used to carry two tyre levers until Kaushik gifted me three. So, now I carry five.

[Minkey Chief]

Anyone is welcome to post here. But if you do, be aware this is a sticky for people who are new to cycling. The aim of the thread is to have lots of basic, clear information. Think back to stuff that you wished you had known when you were first in the market for a bicycle. Write this for the flood of new BZ-users whose first post is, "I want a bike, what do you suggest?"

I think it'll help to always explain jargon (but don't be scared of using it, the more we know the right terms, the easier communication becomes), and to keep the information pretty basic, until it's all covered.

But do read earlier posts so there isn't a lot of repetition.

Please note, your posts may be edited slightly for clarity (headings, capitalisation, bold face, etc.). This applies only to posts on this thread! (Note that content will never be changed without your permission.)

If you want to discuss this thread, post here: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3280

[ranjan1121]

Hey Guys,

I am a newbie but found a good amount of infomration by this thread. The only problem i felt about the thread is:
Please be careful while using technical data you post as the newbie is never aware of the technical stuff (Thats sensible as he is a newbie). Whenever you post, make sure you more amount of information about the stuff you are speaking (A snap of it would help though). Please post the details keeping in mind that the info will be viewed by a newbie. You may be the genius of cycling and its technicals but to a newbie it makes no sense without any information. So pls... pls.. ensure that you put in more effort to explain the newbie with the correct words in the post.

Thanks for such a great post thread,
Ranjan
(No offense just an observation to imrove the forum importance in all level of experiences).

[Avinash_A]

Great post..... very very informative.

Do we have any thread having comparison of Indian bikes from similar segment? (Just like OverDrive does in their magzine)

-regards
Avinash

[goldy_rai]

Hi..Thanks Minkey for your reply..I have already gone through your views abt different aspects abt buying a new bike..What i am asking is simply is it a good option or not..Thanks again

[sudhindra]

You people are the Wiki's of biking....

The post is absolutely amazing and clear on what one has to look at while buying a bicycle and this makes one's decision making much more easier.

Thanks guys thanks for everything I think i got an answer for what i need buy.

[johny8]

Hey Vkalia.
This is nice information on bike for a new bike rider or even anyone new to bike world. You have covered good steps budget, technology, requirement, etc. Can you suggest me a good sports bike with features, if possible?

[arnuld]

Hi Guys, I think its useful to read 2 articles from Sheldon Brown too, it can help the newbie I guess:

http://sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html

[arnuld]

Ehm.... unable to edit the last post of mine, So I post it here, anyone looking at buying some fancy bike, please read the Paul Dorn's advice first:

http://www.runmuki.com/commute/bikesuggestions.html

[rajeshdhuddu]

Good post! It clarifies lot of things that are hazy for a beginner. Going by this...should I buy a Trek 3500 or Trek 7100? Please lemme know!!

[malQ]

Thank you people, this is very informative, however, there are some additional questions here, which I tried to search for and could not find answers to, so frank query - what should be an ideal combination for overweight 54 year olds with no delusions? Need this for street cycling, should be maintenance free as far as possible, and multi-user, which will include go to market to pick up fruit/veggies, go to Lodi Garden and secure bike while strolling, as well as weekend rides of slightly longer duration with DCC hopefully. Gearless uprights?

[vkalia]

^^ You need a hybrid bike... Trek 7100, Cannondale Bad Boy or similar. Overweight/age doesnt matter - unless you are 150kg+ or something, most modern bikes will handle your weight just fine.

As for maintenance - all you need to do is lube the bike once every week or two.

[SanjayK]

malQ:

For low maintenance: go for internal gear hub and belt drive (carbon or kevlar).
for more info: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/hubs-internal.html

[hitanshu]

and sarkar. replace QRT hubs with nuts.

Donno what to do with securing the seat though